Role and functioning of traditional female Arbresh clothes in Italy in modern sociocultural space

DOI: 10.33876/2311-0546/2020-52-4/45-63

Authors

  • Marina A. Suloeva Музей антропологии и этнографии имени Петра Великого РАН

Keywords:

Arbresh diaspora, Piana degli Albanesi, female traditional clothes, identity, traditions, cultural memory

Abstract

The article is devoted to the traditional women’s clothing of the Arbresh diaspora in Piana degli Albanesi in Sicilia. The Arbresh are immigrants from the Balkan Peninsula who migrated to Italian lands in the 15th century. The traditional clothes of Piana degli Albanesei are considered as an integral ethnocultural phenomenon that has been being created for centuries and continues to exist in the modern sociocultural space. The author traces the change in women’s costume and reveals the specifics of its individual elements functioning. The Arbresh consider themselves to be keepers and successors of their own traditions, so they try to create and preserve a certain type of costume, which, despite the borrowed elements, is perceived and transmitted to the world community as an ethnic one. The research base of the work was made up of ethnographic and art studies, as well as the author’s own field materials collected during fieldwork in Sicily in Piana degli Albanesi and Palermo (2016–2017), in Kosovo (2015) and southern Albania (2014–2015).

References

  1. Andreeva, R.P. 1997. Entsiklopediia mody [Fashion Encyclopedia]. St. Petersburg: Litera.
  2. Arsh, G.L., Iu.V. Ivanova, O.A. Kolpakova, andD. Smirnova. 1992. Kratkaia istoriia Albanii: S drevneishikh vremen do nashikh dnei [A Brief History of Albania: From Ancient Times to the Present], edited by G. L. Arsh, G. L.Moscow: Nauka.
  3. Novik, A.A. 2011. Ukrasheniia arbreshei Italii. Materialy polevykh issledovanii MAE RAN. [Jewelry of the Arbëreshë people in Italy]. In Materials of Field Research MAE RAS, edited by G. Fedorova. St. Petersburg: MAE RAN: Pp. 133–154.
  4. Pluzhnikov, V.I. 1995. Terminy rossiiskogo arkhitekturnogo naslediia: Slovar'-glossarii. [Terms of Russian Architectural Heritage: Glossary]. Moscow: Iskusstvo.
  5. Suloeva, M.A., and S. Skiro. Arbreshi Sitsilii: sokhranenie svadebnogo kostiuma (polevye materialy 2016–2017 gg.). [The Arbëreshë people of Sicily: preserving a wedding suit (field materials 2016–2017)]. XII Kongress antropologov i etnologov Rossii: sbornik materialov. Izhevsk, 3–6 iiulia 2017 g. [XII Congress of Anthropologists and Ethnologists of Russia: a collection of materials. Izhevsk, July 3–6, 2017], edited by A.E. Zagrebin, M.Yu. Martynova, 89–90. Moscow; Izhevsk: IEA RAN, UIIIaL UrO RAN.
  6. Suloeva, M.A., and S. Skiro. 2019. Traditsionnyi zhenskii kostium arbreshei Italii v kontekste sovremennoi kul'tury. [The traditional female costume of the Arbëreshë people in Italy in the context of modern culture]. XIII Kongress antropologov i etnologov Rossii: sbornik materialov. Kazan', 2–6 iiulia 2019 g. [XIII Congress of Anthropologists and Ethnologists of Russia: a collection of materials. Kazan, July 2–6, 2019] ], edited by A.E. Zagrebin, M.Yu. Martynova, 458–459. Moscow; Izhevsk: IEA RAN, UIIIaL UrO RAN.
  7. Bellusci C., and F. D’Agostino. Dizionario illustrato italiano-arbërisht-shqip. Storia e lingua albanese di Acquaformosa, Civita, Ejanina, Firmo, Frascineto, Lungro, San Basile e dell’Albania. [Illustrated dictionary english-arbërisht-shqip. History and Albanian language of Acquaformosa, Civita, Ejanina, Firmo, Frascineto, Lungro, San Basile and of Albania]. Vol. I. Collana: Minoranze Linguistiche. Montalto Uffugo: Edizioni Orizzonti Meridionali.
  8. Di Natale M.C. 2000. Gioielli di Sicilia. [Jewels of Sicily]. Palermo: Flaccovio.
  9. Emmanuele D. 1988. Arberia: storia, cultura e folklore. [Arberia: history, culture and folklore].
  10. Gjergji A., 1988. Veshjet shqiptare në shekuj. Origjina. Tipologjia. Zhvillimi. [Albanian clothes for centuries. Origin. The typology. Development.]. Tiranë: Akademia e Shkencave e RPS të Shqipërisë: Instituti i Kulturës Popullore.
  11. Guagliardi D., 2004. La comunità albanese di Sicilia. [The Albanian community of Sicily]. La Diversità Arbёreshe: La formazione, la storia, l`insediamento [Arbёreshe Diversity: Formation, history, settlement]. Vol. I. Cosenza: Falco Editore.
  12. La Barbera M., 2007. Il costume e i gioielli di Piana degli Albanesi. [The costume and jewels of Piana degli Albanesi]. Tracce d’Oriente, catalogo della Mostra [Traces of the East, catalog of the exhibition], edited by M.C. Di Natale. Palermo.
  13. Manali P., 2005. Hora e Arbёreshёvet. Piana degli Albanesi. [Hora e Arbёreshёvet. Piana degli Albanesi]. Palermo: Comune di Piana degli Albanesi.
  14. Mastroberti F., 2008. Le colonie albanesi nel Regno di Napoli tra storia estoriografia. [The Albanian colonies in the Kingdom of Naples between history and historiography], 241–251. Bari: Università degli studi di Bari; Cacucci editore.
  15. Romata Е. 1964. I paesi italo-albanesi dell'italia meridionale. [The Italian-Albanian countries of southern Italy]. l'Accademia Nazionale delle Scienze di Washington.
  16. Russo L. 1975. Albanesi d'Italia. [Albanians of Italy]. Palma Palermo.
  17. Schirò G.D. 2001. Il costume tradizionale femminile di Piana degli Albanesi: fronti iconografiche. [The traditional female costume of Piana degli Albanesi: iconographic fronts]. In Miscellanea arbёreshe, edited by Pietro Manali, 231–250. Quaderni di Biblos: Società e Instituzioni 30/6. Palermo: Unione dei Comuni Besa.
  18. Schirò G.D. Tradizione ed evoluzione nel costume femminile arbëresh. [Tradition and evolution in women's costume arbëresh]. In: Biblos: 91–104.
  19. Schirò 2014. Per una storia del brezi: la cintura tradizionale di Piana degli Albanesi negli scritti di Sidney J.A. Churchill. [For a history of brezi: the traditional belt of Piana degli Albanesi in the writings of Sidney J. A. Churchill]. Rivista dell'Osservatorio per le arti decorative in Italia. Palermo. DOI: 10.7431/RIV10082014.
  20. Sciascia S. 1966. Arte popolare e artigianato in Sicilia: Repertorio dell'artigianato siciliano. [Popular art and crafts in Sicily: repertoire of Sicilian crafts]. Unione delle Commercio Industria ed Agricultura della Regione Siciliana. Rome: Salvatore Sciascia Editore.
  21. Thomai J. 2002. Fjalor i shqipes sё [The dictionary of modern Albanian language]. Tiranё: TOENA.
  22. Zangari D. 1940. Le Colonie Italo-Albanesi di Calabria. [The Italian-Albanian colonies of Calabria Napoli]. Naples.

Downloads

Published

02.02.2021

Issue

Section

Ethnography of Southern Europe